As a surfer, you should be prepared to be a recipient and active participant in profiling. I’m not talking about the type of profiling where the jackass clerk follows you around the drugstore or the moronic couple presumes you’re a threat and turns abruptly if you happen to walk behind them at night.
Nope, we’re here to discuss surf profiling. You see, recreational surfing can be competitive: Surfers see perfect waves as a finite resource and everyone wants to get theirs before anyone else does. From the moment you pull into the parking lot, eyes will be on you, evaluating your every move to find signs of weakness.
I actually find surf profiling to be meritocratic and strangely comforting, especially when compared to what people of color have to endure in public. For those of you who are new to the game, here are some surf profiling basics so you’ll know what to expect.
Surf Profiling basics
Arrival style. Your arrival style says a lot about how you’ll perform in the lineup. When you see a person who arrives with the focus of a Special Forces operator – assessing conditions, concisely prepping equipment and entering the water with minimal chit chat, you can assume that she will surf well and get a solid share of waves. On the other hand, kooky surfers tend to be louder and less efficient. Last month, I met up with some guys whom I hadn’t surfed with before. They pulled into the parking lot 20 minutes late and, instead of getting ready, loudly recounted what they did the night before. Meanwhile, the third guy found a football and decided to have a toss-a-round. Even worse, they forgot to pack wax and leashes. Once the guys finally pulled it together, the phones came out and they started taking selfies with their boards. Wasted time = wasted waves. Using my own surf profiling, I kept my distance from them as we walked to the water because I felt that being close to their kookiness would negatively impact my position in the lineup. So, when you arrive to surf, be focused, efficient, and prepared. It will benefit your performance and reception in the lineup.
Board Choice. Surfers will notice the type of board you carry to the water. Often, people think the smaller the board, the better the surfer.
That’s not necessarily true. For example, if I see a guy dilly dally in the parking lot and pull a potato chip of a board out on a small day, he could easily be more kooky than expert. Generally, people carrying twins or thinned out longboards have skill, style, and street cred. If you have a big foamy or a log, people will assume you’re a novice and not a competitive threat when catching waves. That’s not a bad thing – you’re learning to surf! Very importantly, you should only concern yourself with using the board that fits your skill level and sets you up for progression. Going out on a board that doesn’t fit won’t earn you any points.
One last point – I strongly discourage showing up with a board from Costco. Those flimsy fins and cheesy logos signal a lack of commitment to the sport. With so many other economical board options out there, you should take the time to learn about them.
Board control. Your ability to manage your board out in the lineup will have a direct impact on your reception. One morning, I was in a crowded lineup (~70 people) with 2 friends of mine. I was surfing well but my legs were sore from a heavy leg workout 2 days before. I paddled back to my friends after catching a wave. Just as I sat on my board, my left hamstring cramped up. I grabbed at my hammy and as I did, lost my balance and rolled into the water making a big splash. I stayed under water for a few extra counts because I knew I just blew all of my credibility. I got back up on my board and my 2 buddies looked at me in horror. Almost simultaneously, two other surfers paddled right on top of my position. Why? Because they assumed my inability to control my board signaled weakness and when the set came, they could easily take the wave from me. I had to work harder for the rest of that session. The other board control issue to be aware of is when waves break in front of you. No matter what you do, do not let go of your board. It will feel chaotic and strenuous at times, but that is better than being irresponsible and letting your board hit someone else.
When your leash stretches out, a runaway board can quickly come in range of surfers who appear to be far away. Letting your board go will create enemies in the lineup and surf profiling can potentially escalate into bad consequences. Just don’t do it.
Etiquette. Surf etiquette is central to surf profiling. The better your etiquette, the better you’ll be treated no matter your skill level. From paddling toward the whitewater to avoid messing up someone’s ride or being mindful about taking more than your fair share of waves if you’re riding a longboard, you should always try to stay on top of your etiquette game. Pay attention to the norms of every spot you surf and when things go wrong, be proactive in calling out your mistakes and making peace. When someone wrongs you, keep your cool but be direct and resolute in your communication. Being an expert is not an excuse for being a jerk, so keep etiquette in mind as you progress.